Lakes, Volcanoes, and a (Missing) Mt. Fuji

Loren Spain
6 days ago
3 min read

Hakone was a highlight for us, offering the chance to catch a glimpse of Mt. Fuji and explore a different side of Japan. Even though Mt. Fuji didn’t make an appearance, we absolutely loved the area- it’s stunning, peaceful, and full of things to do. From lakes and ropeways to hot springs and scenic walks, Hakone gives a taste of a more relaxed, scenic Japan. Not seeing Mt. Fuji this time just gives us a perfect reason to return!

Our initial plan was to rent a car and drive around the Fuji area, but since we hadn’t sorted our overseas driving licences in the UK before leaving, that wasn’t an option. Instead, we relied on public transport and purchased a Hakone Free Pass, which turned out to be excellent value for getting around.

Where we stayed

We stayed at Guesthouse Azito, a cozy hostel perched on a short but steep hill from the train station. There’s also a bus that runs roughly once an hour, which is handy if you don’t feel like walking uphill with luggage. In the hostel, we had a double bed on the ground floor inside a small wooden “box” with just enough space to move around. Outside the room, there was a large locker, and the toilets and showers were always clean. The hostel also has a small kitchen and a tiny bar, though we didn’t use them. The only downside was it got very hot at night, but keeping the door slightly open solved that problem.

Day 1- Arrival and black ice-cream

We used the Romancecar to get to Hakone, making sure to sit on the right side of the train (seats C or D when facing forward) for the best chance to see Mt. Fuji. The train ride was comfortable and scenic. A tip: if you book tickets online, you may still need to purchase a separate ticket at the station for the actual train- something we didn’t realise at first. While at the station, we also picked up our Hakone Free Pass, which was perfect for using the multiple forms of transport around the region.

After arriving in Hakone, we caught the bus to the hostel and dropped off our bags. We then walked down to the visitor centre to ask for tips and discovered a live webcam of Mt. Fuji from Lake Ashi. Based on recommendations, we made our way to the cable car, then the ropeway, going over Owakudani to see the active volcano.

Here, we tried the famous black ice cream- surprisingly tasty and just like vanilla. Although Mt. Fuji was hidden behind clouds, we spent plenty of time people-watching and enjoying the atmosphere. We had planned to visit the Open Air Museum, but ran out of time.

Around 4 p.m., we took the ropeway and cable car back down to Hakone town- a really long journey of about an hour and a half (I don't think this was normal?) and found a small curry spot called Cocoro near the bottom of the hill from our hostel. The food was delicious, and Adam’s portion was enormous. After dinner, we called it an early night.

Day 2- Lake Ashi & Pirate Ship Cruise

The next morning, we caught the first bus to Lake Ashi, hoping for another chance to see Mt. Fuji. We grabbed breakfast from 7-Eleven, which we enjoyed while looking out over the lake. We then walked to the Peace Torii, but the queue was massive, so we didn’t take a photo's.

Instead, we walked back over to the port and boarded the pirate ship cruise across Lake Ashi, which was a fun way to see the area from the water. We then took the cable car back up to Owakudani. The view was slightly clearer than the day before, but still no Mt. Fuji. We did, however, try the famous black eggs, which were actually quite tasty!

We stayed at Owakudani until closing, then returned via the same transport, enjoying the sunset on the boat and a simple 7-Eleven dinner by the lake. Back at the hostel, we packed for our departure the next morning.